Showing posts with label Cactus care. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cactus care. Show all posts

Thursday, 12 July 2018

Cactus care


Light and air:

1. Succulents and Cacti should be kept in airy and lighting position around the year. A south-facing window is ideal for most types.
2. Few other succulents like Aloe, Gasteria, Haworthia etc. will be quite happy in under the shadow.
To keep them healthy, succulents should get sunlight falling on it for at least a part of the day. That means they need low light, either in morning or at afternoon sun. Only for 4 to 5 hours sunlight is enough.
3. If you have the north-facing window, which never gets any sunlight, try to install a plant light, or create an artificial light, using the mirror or put your plants outdoors in the sunlight.
4. Some Epiphytic cacti such as Christmas & Easter, Rhipsalis etc. are suitable for North-facing window. These plants give you better flowers under these conditions.
5. Never bring the cactus home and place it in the bright sun, cactus burns under the sun just like people.


Water for Cacti and Succulents:

1. Succulents need water when they are dry in the summer. Allow the plants to become dry before watering again as they don't like wet feet all the time.
2. Sprinkle can help keep the plants free from dust and look healthier. Exceptions are the rosette types where water gets trapped and cause rotting e.g. Echeveria.
3. The jungle cacti or epiphytes such as Orchid cacti or Christmas cacti need water every time.
4. In the winter, from November to February, most plants need no water at all, unless kept at a high temperature when a little water is needed to prevent undue shrivelling.



Food:

When you bring the plant home, most of the time it is in a small pot and it probably has grown there for a long time, which means it has used probably all the nutrients in the soil. So think about re-potting and setting up feeding program. Most cactus-like several small feedings than one large feeding. The other way is to give the plants food three times a year (spring, summer, fall) with a dilute solution of plant food like (5-10-5). This should do them well for the year.


Flowers:

1. It is a myth that the cactus flowers only every seven years. Once the size of the bloom is reached, they bloom every year and some even bloom twice a year. Many cacti reach flowering size in two years, while some take ten years to mature. The latest plants are usually grown for their attractive thorns and flowers.
2. To produce flowers, cacti need a period of rest and fresh dry winter. A cold room is ideal for this. Given this rest, every season, and lots of sunshine, many varieties bloom on a window ledge, but there are some that produce better results in the greenhouse or conservatory. To facilitate successful growth, we give you the following - Echinopsis, orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), Gymnocalycium, Mammillaria, Rebutia (Aylostera) Notocactus, and also Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).
3. Bloom has been greatly helped by regular feeding with a fertilizer high in potash during growing season. Each tomato fertilizer is ideal. Feed them every third watering.



Re-potting time:

1. When you cannot see any soil from the pot or if the cactus covers the pot, you need to re-pot.
2. The best way in this matter is a vessel two times bigger than the earlier post after 12 months.
3. In the larger plate, a good, gritty, porous compost is required as a mixture.
4. To make your own mix, we recommend 50% horticultural sand, 30% clogging or barren land, 15% perlite or pumice, 5% peat moss or potting soil. A slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote (NPK 18-16-12) can be added, which provides nutritional needs.
5. Move the plant away from the high ground of compost (peat/compost of leaves) content that tends to decompose in a year or two. Coir (coconut fibre) holds better the structure and serves as the renewable resource.

Thursday, 9 March 2017

Adenium germination - A step by step guide






SPECIFICATION OF ADENIUM
Environment: Full sun

Temperature: 75 - 80F
Average Germ Time: 14 - 21 days

Depth: 1/4 inch

Moisture: Keep seeds moist until germination



GERMINATION OF ADENIUM

The perfect media fresh and mixed with sieved vermicompost or  Coconut powder. Below are the steps how to of sow seeds with this methods.


Step 1
 Prepare fine Coconut powder by filtering with a strainer and dry on direct on sunlight, or  freshly washed  sand and mixed with sieved vermicompost

Step 2
At the time of filtering can get two types coconut fibre and separate with another basket.

Step 3
Use water mixed fungicide chemical for watering dry coconut powder until it's soaked. To protect the baby seedling fungicide chemical is very important.Through this process, the roots will be nice.

Step 4
Use thick coconut fibre on the bottom of our sowing pot. They will be works as a strainer can control water flow and also protect coconut powder flow out from the bottom of the pot.

Step 5
Now cover the fine coconut fibre.

Step 6
 Use small amount "Organic Fertilizer", and this fertilizer will help the baby and younger seedlings and also them growing stronger and healthier.

Step 7
Please do not use chemical fertilizer to just boost up the growth rate but it can weaken them in future growth.

Step 8
Cover again with fine coconut fibre.and spread again good fertilizer (Do not use more)all over the coconut powder.

Step 9

 Cover with small amount fine coconut powder again.

Step 10
 Now Watering them and watch until you see water come down from the bottom of the pot .

Step 11
Now make s different row for sowing the seeds.

Step 12
Use the clipper lightly to put each seed in each row very gently horizontally.

Step 13
Use tag, name and date for your identification.

Step 14
 Cover it with dry coconut powder again, and keep the distance about 1 cm height.

Step 15
 Again use water until top coconut powder just getting wet. Use the wrapper to cover pots and place them under shade for a week.

Step 16
Open the pot cover after a weak, and new baby seedlings growing up from media. Sometimes they take 8 to 10 days.

Step 17
 Spread again light fertilizer all over seedlings. Hope you will enjoy.







Sunday, 19 April 2015

Rebutia variety mix color



Growing a Cactus from Seed




Growing plants from seed are not as hard as you might think – even though many of us have tried and failed! One of the most common mistakes people make is planting the seeds too deeply. You should only plant a seed as deep in the soil as the seed is wide. When seeds are planted too deeply the tiny plants emerge and begin to grow but do not reach the surface before they run out of stored food. Follow these instructions for growing cacti from seed and you will surely be successful.

SEED: It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection.

Organ pipe fruit cut in half to expose seeds.Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.


SOIL: A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix of growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300 degrees F for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.



PLANTING: Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.




GERMINATION: Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed.The majority of seeds germinate best at a temperature between 70 and 75'F, and some seedlings may appear within a week or 10 days. At lower temperatures, germination usually takes considerably longer. Failing a propagator, many people make use of a warm place such as the airing cupboard, or near the kitchen boiler, but the seed pans must be moved into a good light as soon as the first germinations have taken place. From late Spring onwards, a sunny window-sill or greenhouse may be used, but in such cases, the seedlings must be protected from direct sun, for which a double thickness of butter muslin will serve as well as anything. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.You can use led ceiling light to create the temperature.


REPOTTING: Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to the full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches across.

Caution: Pests The most dangerous insect pests for young seedlings are Sciarids or Mushroom flies, which lay their eggs in damp compost and seem attracted to compost containing leaf-mould. The grubs which hatch out seem particularly partial to small seedlings and will either eat the entire plant or leave nothing but an empty shell. The flies are small and black and hover or walk over the compost. They can be dealt with at the grub stage by spraying the seed-pan with a systemic insecticide, which may also kill some adults. This appears to be harmless to the seedlings. The risk of sciarid attack continues for as long as the seedlings are kept damp, though it seems unlikely that the grubs will attack a well-grown 18-month-old seedling. Small slugs are another potential cause of considerable losses, though these can usually be seen without difficulty and precautions are straightforward.