Amla & Amla Berry Germination ,Growing ,Care, Use and its Surprising Health Benefits.

Embelica Officinalis, known as Amla or Indian Gooseberry or Nelli is an important fruit with high medicinal value. The fruits have the richest source of vitamin-C and are considered to be a good liver tonic.


POSITION:

Plant Amla tree in a location that is less windy and sunny. The well-draining and sloppy position are good for its growth.
SOIL:

Well-drained, loamy to light heavy soil that is deep and rich in organic matter is required for growing amla tree. A pH level can be between slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. The waterlogged and clay-rich soil is detrimental and must be avoided, same is the case with too sandy soils.

CLIMATE:
It is a tropical plant. The annual rainfall of 630-800 mm is ideal for its growth. The young plant up to the age of 3 years should be protected from hot wind during May-June and from frost during winter months. The mature plants can tolerate freezing temperature as well as a high temperature up to 46OC.
WATERING:

Regular and abundant watering is essential at the young age. Once the tree gets established it doesn’t require regular and frequent watering. However, you can water the plant during the period of active growth or in a drought like conditions in summer. Watering 2-3 times in a month in summer is sufficient for a mature tree. In any case, water stagnation must be avoided.
TEMPERATURE:

Amla tree is tough and resistant to exploits of climate. It bears mild snowfall during winter months in the forest of Western Himalayas and tolerates extreme heat and dry atmosphere in tropical India. It is sensitive to prolonged freezing temperatures and grows best when it is not exposed to frost.




GROWING

1. Spread amla berries in sunlight to dry until they are shrivelled if you don't begin with amla seeds. Peel off the pulp to uncover the berries' hexagonal stones. Locate the small seeds inside the stones, and pry them out, cutting the stones if necessary.

2. Drop the amla seeds into a container of water. Discard all seeds that don't sink into the water. Let the seeds soak in the water for 12 hours.

3. Fill seedling pots with a potting soil containing equal portions of sand, compost, and garden loam. Plant one amla seed in each pot, placing each seed at a depth three times its diameter in the potting soil. Moisten the potting soil, and cover the pots with plastic wrap. Remove the plastic wrap as needed to moisten the soil, ensuring it stays damp. Germination should occur in two weeks to one month. Continue to grow the seedlings in pots for eight to 10 months, until they reach 10 to 12 inches in height.

4. Choose a planting location with deep, rich, well-drained loam and full sun exposure. Although amla does best in deep, rich soil, it grows in almost any ground that isn't extremely alkaline or soggy. Dig planting holes 30 feet apart, and mix a few shovelfuls of composted manure into the soil of each hole. Plant the seedlings at the same soil depth in the holes that they were in their pots. Place composted manure on top of the soil around the seedlings, keeping it several inches from their trunks. Water the planting sites.

5. Snip back the tips of your saplings when the trees reach 3 feet tall. Doing so forces them to branch out. Allow a few of the strongest branches evenly spaced around the trunk to remain, but remove all weak growth.

6. Give each tree about 5 ounces of granular, fruit tree fertilizer twice during the first year, scratching the fertilizer into the ground around each tree's trunk and watering that ground afterwards. Double the amount of fertilizer the second year, and gradually increase it so each tree receives about 3 pounds of the fertilizer per application when it is 10 years old. After the trees begin to produce fruits, schedule the feedings so that one feeding occurs just after the blossoms fall and the other feeding occurs four months afterwards.

7. Water the trees at least once every two weeks during summer. Expect the trees to flower during summer and to produce fruits during winter to early spring.


8. Pick the fruits after they turn from green to greenish yellow or greenish white, but check the seeds inside one berry before picking all of the berries. Seeds that turned from white to black indicate the fruit is ripe.

English Daisy Germination & Care ( Bells Perennis)

English Daisy( Bells Perennis) is a wild flower.It is biennial in its character and it also a hardy plant.It is bloomed especially early spring to early summer.It has many colors like red, white etc.Bells is generally called English Daisy.

SPECIFICATION OF ENGLISH DAISY

Season: Biennial
Height: 12- 18 inches
Bloom Season: spring to summer
Bloom Color: mixed
Environment: Full sun
Soil Type: Loamy, well-drained, pH 6.1 - 7.8
Average Germ Time: 14 - 21 days
Depth: 1/4 inch
Moisture: Keep seeds moist until germination
Plant Spacing: 8 - 12 inches

GERMINATION GUIDE

Step 1

Use a flat seedling tray and its deep will be 5 centimeter. Make sure you have plenty of holes in it for good water drainage.

Step 2
Take equal quantity of sand, soil and vermicompost. Then  mix all the three ingredients into one container.

Step 3

As the seeds are perfect in size then you can put the seeds over it by 1/3 after that cover the seeds with seedling mix only about 1 cm (one centimeter)
If your seeds are so tiny then you can spreed water very lightly and carefully on the seed.Make sure that the water must be mixed with diluted fungicide powder(2 gm in 1 litter water). It is very important  notice to follow that the seeds will not to go very deep inside the mixture by speeding water on the seed, if it happen then the fertilization of the seeds are become difficult.

Step 4
  
Sprinkle diluted fungicide water (2gm in 1 liter water) after sowing the seeds.We have to careful about putting the seed because seeds will not to go deep inside the mixture.

Step 5
 Cover the seedling tray with tightly  plastic polythene wrap over the pot to promote soil moisture  and place it in under  light shadow area . Lift the plastic after three days  to check that the soil  moist or  not. If not, lightly moisten it with a water-filled spray bottle before replacing the plastic.

Step 6
Remove the plastic as soon as the seedlings emerge, and gradually move the pot to a brighter area over a two-week period so that at the end of that time they're acclimated to being in full sunlight.

CARE

• The plant needs shade in the nursery.High intensity of sunlight is harmful to it.

• When seedling will be  reached at 4 to 6 leaf soon they will  be transplanted to poly bags.

• But do it carefully from beds with all roots immediately after transplantation.

Site and soil:

The most important requirement  is a good location with plenty of light. It needs at least five or six hours of good sunlight. It will  perform even better when located in full sun all day. With out  much  light they will produce  fewer flowers.

Spread the organic matter two to three inches thick. Then incorporate it into the soil to a depth of eight to ten inches, using a rototiller or garden fork. This helps open up heavy clay soil, which improves drainage, but can also increase the ability of light, sandy soil always hold moisture and nutrients.

Mimosa pudica sensitive magical plant

Mimosa pudica sensitive magical plant :
Mimosa pudica (from Latin: pudica "shy, bashful or shrinking"; also called sensitive plant and the touch-me-not), is a creeping annual or perennial herb often grown for its curiosity value:
the compound leaves fold inward and droop when touched or shaken, re-opening minutes later. The species is native to South America and Central America but is now a pantropical weed.
Pretty puff-ball flowers of pink and fern-like leaves that quickly fold once touched: the sensitive plant is a wonder of the plant world. A tender perennial that becomes semi-wood yin frost-free regions, it is often short-lived and is most popularly grown as an annual.The leaves are bright green to grey-green in colour and are shaped like a four-fingered hand.

SPECIFICATION OF MIMOSA PUDICA
Sowing Temperature: 20-26C
Growing Temperature: 18-40C
Spacing: 10*10CM
Grow up / Flower days : 60days
Height when growing up:20-30CM
Color Of Flower: Pink

DESCRIPTION:
So-Called Sensitive Plant, Because The Leaflets Floyd Up In A Most Spectacular Manner When Is Touched Or Blown By The Wind. Run Your Hand Over The Plant And The Leaves Will Fold Up And Return To Normal Condition In A Few Minutes. Favor To A Sandy Well-Drained Soil. Keep Soil Damp But Not Wet. Do Not Exclude Light. Overwinter Indoor And Temperature Above 10C.

GERMINATION GUIDE:
Use a flat tray container about 10 inches by 15 inches (biggest or smaller your choice) 1.5 to 2 inches deep. Make sure you have plenty of holes in it for good water drainage- put the seedling mix you prepared up to almost top leaving about 0.5 inches space - now evenly spread the seeds over it after that cover the seeds with seedling mix only about 0.5 cm (half a centimeter)- water it by watering can- place the container in semi-shaded place.

Step 1 :
Fill a pot with water that equals five times the seed volume and brings it to a boil on a stove. Check the temperature of the water with a cooking thermometer, and when it reaches 176 degrees Fahrenheit, remove the pot from the stove.
Step 2:
Place the mimosa pudica seeds in the hot water and stir them for up to two minutes with a spoon before draining the liquid.

Step 3:
Fill a bowl with lukewarm water that's between 86 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit and soak the seeds in it for 24 hours. This pre-treatment is called scarification and alters the hard seed coat, which increases the chances of uniform germination.
Step 4:
Fill a pot with the moist seed-starting mix up to 1 inch from the top, place the seed on top of the surface and cover it with a 1/2-inch layer of the mix. Tamp down lightly and moisten the surface with a water-filled spray bottle to avoid washing away the seed.
step 5:
Cover tightly plastic polythene wrap over the pot to promote soil moisture retention and place it in a dimly lit area of the house. Lift the plastic daily to check that the soil is moist. If not, lightly moisten it with a water-filled spray bottle before replacing the plastic. Expect germination within three to five days.
Step 6:
Remove the plastic as soon as the seedlings emerge, and gradually move the pot to a brighter area over a two-week period so that at the end of that time they're acclimated to being in full sunlight.
Step 7:
Transplant the seedlings outside to an area with full sun and well-draining soil after three to five months, when the seedlings are about 8 to 12 inches tall.

IMPORTANT WATERING USE: Use watering can for watering. By moving the water stream constantly waves the can. Do not let the water to flood in particular area. Or use the sprayer to spray the water like mist.

English Lavender Germination and Cultivation

 English Lavender Vera, Lavandula Angustifolia

Lavender Vera is thought to be the true English Lavender. Also called True Lavender or Fine Lavender, it is thought to be the best Lavender for medicinal and aromatherapy purposes. This evergreen is a staple plant for the herb garden, the fragrant flowers have been used in perfumes, poultices and potpourris for centuries.
It is an excellent plant for low informal hedging and as a specimen evergreen for borders and formal gardens. For best effect plant it by doors and paths, where it's delightful scent can be fully appreciated.


BOTANICAL INFORMATION:

Family: Lamiaceae
Genus: Lavandula
Species: Angustifolia
Synonym: Lavender Vera
Common Name: True English Lavender, Fine Lavender
Hardiness: Hardy Perennial
Flowers: Mid to late Spring
Foliage: Evergreen, narrow grey-green leaves
Height: 30 to 45cm (12 to 18in)
Spread: 45 to 60cm (18 to 24in)
Position: Prefers Full Sun, Sheltered
Soil: Well-drained/light, Chalky/alkaline, Dry, Sandy
Germination: 21 to 90 Days
Notes: Herb, Evergreen Shrub (Hardy)

GERMINATION:

Late winter to late spring (February to April) or sow in late summer to autumn (August to Oct)
Lavender can be sown at any time of year but prefers the ground temperature to be around 13 to 18°C (55 to 65°F). Sow seed on the surface of a well-drained, seed compost in pots or trays. Cover seed with a light sprinkling of compost or vermiculite. Keep at a temperature of between 15 to 20°C (59 to 68°F). Germination in 21 to 90 days.
When large enough to handle, transplant seedlings into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Acclimatize to outdoor conditions for 10 to 15 days before planting out after all risk of frost, 45cm (18in) apart. For best results, provide any ordinary, well-drained soil in full sun.

Prepare a planting mix with the sand, soil and vermicompost=>Sprinkle diluted fungicide water (2gm in 1-litre water) after sowing the seeds. Make a hole in the potting mix with your finger=>Insert each seed in a hole as 1/3=>Place the planted pots or flats in a warm, above 60ºF (15.5ºC), sunny place=>too wet is quite dangerous for the seeds to keep the potting soil moist but not too wet until the seeds emerge, which should be in about 21 days=>cover the mixture with poly bag=> after 21 days  you can remove the plastic.

COLD GERMINATION:

1. Put seeds into 40° C water for 24 hours.
2. Put seeds into very wet sands or coco pit then it must be able to retain the moisture and to circulate the oxygen for germination. ( Generally, it takes more than 40 days. )
3. Move it into the soil after it sprouts.
4. Germination temperature: 20-25℃
5. Germination time: 40 days
6. Growth optimum temperature: 10-25 ℃
7. Spacing: 20 * 20cm
8. Rose on soil not ask for much, just with some humus soil aggregate 

CULTIVATION:

Lavenders do best in moderately fertile, well-drained, alkaline soils in full sun. Once established they thrive on poor, dry, stony soils, but do not tolerate waterlogging. In poorly-drained soils plant on a mound or, in the case of hedging, on a ridge which will keep the base of the plants out of the saturated soil. On heavier soils consider adding large quantities of gravel to improve drainage. It will grow in slightly acid soils.
Adequate spacing is essential to provide good air circulation. For informal plantings allow up to 90cm (36in). Where grown as a hedge, plant about 30cm (12in) apart or 45cm (18in) apart for taller cultivars. Prune back to encourage bushy growth. Although lavenders are drought-tolerant, they need watering until established. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers.
Lavenders grow well in containers but are deep-rooted and need large pots with a diameter of 30 to 45cm (12 to 18in). Use a loam-based compost such as John Innes No. 3 with added coarse grit for drainage and a controlled-release fertilizer. Plants will need regular watering in summer but should be kept on the dry side over winter.

PRUNING:

Lavenders should be pruned every year to keep them in a tidy shrub form. Pruning or trimming should be done each year in late summer, as soon as the blooms have faded so that the bushes have time to make a little new growth before winter. On established plants use secateurs to remove flower stalks and about 2.5cm (1in) of the current year’s growth, making sure that some green growth remains. Hard pruning is sometimes done in April, but this means the loss of a season’s flowers.

HARVESTING:

Harvesting Lavender is one of the most enjoyable pleasures any gardener can have. Lavender flower heads look grey before the flowers open. Cut lavender stems when the lowest blossom opens. Make the cut slightly above the first set of leaves leaving a stem length suitable for a vase or whatever flower arrangement you choose. The colour will be more vivid when dried.

Cut the flower stems during the cool of the morning after the dew has dried. The fragrance is the strongest then, and the blossoms will keep most of the perfume oils present, even when dried. Keep cutting blooming stems to encourage more growth. Plants can flower up to three times during a summer.

Tie the stems in small bunches and hang upside down in a warm dark place for the deepest colour and to prevent them from bending. More essential oils will be retained, too. Use a dark, dry, airy room for fast drying. It will take about a week for the flowers to completely dry.

Banks and Slopes, City/Courtyard Gardens, Coastal, Cottage/Informal Garden, Drought Resistant, Flowers Borders and Beds, Garden Edging, Gravel Garden, Mediterranean, Patio/Container Plants, Rock Garden or Wildlife Gardens.
Aromatherapy, Culinary uses, Companion Plant and Insect repellent.

COMPANION PLANTS:

The scent of lavender repels fleas and moths can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly. While flowering it nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavender planted under and near to fruit trees can deter codling moth.