Germination and growing of Papaya

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Nutrient: Vitamin C, carotenes, flavonoids, the B vitamins, folate, minerals, fiber, vitamin A, magnesium, potassium, copper, pantothenic acid

 
DESCRIPTION:

Papaya is a fruit that is eaten in all parts of the world because of its taste and health benefits. Its a good source of Vitamin C and A. Also high in potassium and calcium, a good source of fibre, and low in calories.

Papaya trees grow best in hot weather with a lot of sunlight. When you plant the seeds be sure to place them in an area free of shade.

Papayas are a short-lived plant and the younger ones produce more fruit, so keep a succession of plants to ensure a steady crop.

Papaya plants need to be planted in a well-drained area. They are very susceptible to rotting if they are over watered.

GROWING INSTRUCTIONS:

If you want to improve papaya seed germination, follow these steps:-

1. Mix 100 grams of potassium nitrate in 1 litre of water (3.4 ounces in 1 quart)
2. Soak seeds for 30 minutes
3. Plant immediately after soaking.

*The best way to germinate papaya seeds is to remove the arils surrounding the seeds, rinse them with warm water to remove the juice from the arils and soak them overnight in warm water. Discard any seeds that are floating in the soak.

Mix the seeds with a handful of standard potting compost. Spread evenly over the top of a pot containing at least 3 or 4 inches of a good planting mix. Or, plant five seeds in a hole with no compost or manure (do not plant them very deeply). Make sure they are planted in loamy soil in a well-drained area. Then cover the seed mix with another 1/2" of compost. Be careful to keep the pot damp but never wet! Try to maintain a steady temperature between 15ºc to 20ºc or 80 degrees F or so. Keep the area warm until they sprout. Don't keep them too damp or they are likely to suffer from damping off. Germination should take between 2 to 6 weeks. Prick the seedlings out when they have about 4 true leaves and transplant into 4-inch containers if they are in the pot.

Papayas don't transplant well. Anything that disturbs the roots of papayas really sets them back. They just hate it. The most effective way to grow papayas is to simply plant them where they are to live.

Papaya trees are very hungry. That means they need very good soil, rich in organic matter and nutrients. If you don't have fabulous soil, make some. Dig a hole half a meter across and fill it with a mix of good compost and soil. Actually, make at least two or three such planting beds in different locations. Cover the seeds lightly with more compost, and then mulch the patch well. The seeds usually take about a couple of weeks to germinate and may take longer.

Papayas start flowering when they are about one meter tall. The males flower first. Male flowers have long, thin stalks with several small blooms. Female flowers have usually single bloom, bigger, and very close to the trunk. You should end up with one very strong and healthy female plant per bed. If the weather is warm enough, and if you are growing your papayas in full sun and in good soil, then you could be picking the first ripe fruit within 10 months.


WATERING:

Papayas have large soft leaves. They evaporate a lot of water in warm weather, so they need a lot of water. But unfortunately, papayas are very susceptible to root rot, especially in cool weather. Overwatering is the most common reason for problems when growing papayas.

It depends on the temperature and on the overall health and vigour of the plant. A healthier plant will crop better, but in general, you should be careful not to over water during periods of cool weather.


How much should you give food for plant:-

As much as you can spare. Papayas need a lot of fertilizing. They are particularly greedy for nitrogen. Fertilize them regularly. You can use a complete fertilizer or something like chicken manure. Papayas handle strong or fresh manures fairly well. You should also be generous with compost, and just keep piling on the mulch as the plants grow bigger.


REQUIREMENT OF SUNLIGHT:

Papayas love heat and sunlight. You can get them to grow in partial shade, but you just end up with a spindly, sickly tree, and if you ever get any fruit it will be several meters up in the air and taste insipid.

Around the year Papayas gives fruit, as long as the weather is warm enough. Keep them happy and they will keep fruiting. (If the temperatures drop too much they stop flowering. They will flower again as it warms up.)

Young papayas are the most productive. The older a papaya plant gets, the weaker it becomes. It will produce less and smaller fruit, and it may get diseases. Also, because the plants keep growing taller it gets harder to reach the fruit.

HOW LONG DOES PAPAYA LIVE?

That can vary greatly, but most papaya plants are short-lived. As they get older they get more susceptible to all kinds of diseases. Most of the time they die within three years. But if you maintain well they will last longer and give fruits.

PROBLEMS OF PAPAYA!

Root rot is the common problem due to over-watering. Keep you papaya plants dry. The best time to cut a papaya back is during dry weather. The trunk is hollow. If it fills with water it will rot. You can protect it by covering it with an upside down a plastic pot or-or a bag. Papayas get viruses and diseases, transmitted by sucking insects.

WARNING!

Young, vigorous papayas are least affected by insects or diseases. Just keep planting lots of them, and always keep just the best. The planting method outlined above, and regular replanting, are the best way to ensure a regular supply of papaya.

If you get at least long hot summers you could grow papaya just as an ornamental plant. In this case, you would start them in a pot indoors to gain extra time. Plant them out against a sun-facing wall and enjoy the tropical look. However, you won't be able to keep your papaya alive long enough to get fruit.

Papayas require a warm climate for vigorous growth and fruit production. If your soil moisture and temperature can be moderated papaya can grow well in a pot. Given a large enough pot, the plant can grow to 5 or even exceptionally 10 meters tall. The leaves are large, deeply lobed and form a dense canopy at the top of the plant.

Fertilize the growing plant with a bucket of compost or manure every other month. Do not apply chicken manure to trees younger than two years. It will burn young papaya trees.

Sweet William (Dianthus Plant) Germination Trips

Sweet Williams is actually a short-lived perennial, and it is possible to keep it growing for several years by dead-heading. Alternatively, leave plants that have flowered to shed seed. Remove the dead plants to allow the seedlings space to grow.

This compact plant is also suitable for a container . It is best planted together with taller flowering plants to provide vertical contrast.

SPECIFICATION OF DIANTHUS

Name: Sweet William

Scientific name: Dianthus barbatus

Color: pink, red, white, & bicolour

Plant seeds: outdoors just before winter or after frost  and  indoors weeks before the last frost

Bloom time: winter, spring, summer(depends on countries)

Hardiness Zone: 10 - 12 (reseeds itself easily)

Plant Height: 12 - 18"

Plant Spacing: 12 -15"

Light requirements: sun - part shade

Soil & water preferences: average

Activity attracts bees, butterflies, & hummingbirds.

Germination Requirements for Sweet William (Dianthus Plants):

Prepare the Media: 

Best germination, you will need to Professional quality Seedling mix. Below process is the best way to make it :

Sieved Coco peat
Sieved sand
Try to use a mix of half virgin forest leaf soil for better germination if the seeds are very small.
Fungicide (Bastian etc.)

As per requirement, mix 80% Coco peat & 20% Sand Sieved. After mixing add Fungicide 1 gm / 2.6 Kg.

Now sow the seeds carefully and cover mixed seedling media.Sprinkle water to keep the seeds moist.
Cover the seedling tray with rapper and placed on the partial shade.

Wait 10 to 14 days and check and sprinkle water frequently to keep the seed moist.



PROTECT & CARE:

Sweet Williams prefers a good drainage and a slightly alkaline soil. Add lime before planting. Planted in full Sun area where gets at least 5 hours of sunlight a day.
It can put a group of plants into a shallow pot. Water well.

Sweet Williams is very hardy and should survive in most areas.To protect the seeds from insects and birds cover the area with transparent polythene or big leaf of trees(e.g.Coconut or Date plant). After sowing the seeds use spray folidol powder.

Loosen the soil in a full-sun garden bed with a garden fork for direct soil. Spread 2 inches of compost over the soil and work it into the top foot of soil. Space the plants 6 to 12 inches apart in all directions.Spray water slowly.

For gardening pot: Dig the planting holes so they are twice as wide but equal in depth to the nursery pot.Set the sweet William into the planting hole and fill it back in with soil. Place the container in a semi shaded place.  


Water Sweet William immediately following planting. Continue to irrigate once per week through the spring and summer growing season. Sweet William requires approximately 1 inch of water weekly. The soil should remain moist but not become muddy.

Mulch over the bed with a 2-inch layer of bark or wood mulch. The mulch suppresses weeds and conserves the moisture in the soil.

Pinch off the blossoms once they begin to fade. Remove the entire flower structure, including the swollen portion at the base where seeds are produced. Removing the old flower prevents seed formation and encourages the plant to produce more blooms.

Add a fresh 1-inch layer of compost in spring when new growth begins. Replenish the mulch to maintain the 2-inch layer.

Adenium Germination Step By Step Guide

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The perfect media Coconut powder is neutral, not too acid or base and also can keep the moisture longer and no water draining. Below are the steps how to of sow seeds with this methods.



1.Collect organic composed and fresh sand or good quality fertile Soil. Now sieved with a strainer mixed with.Take a good drain seedling tray. Or prepare fine Coconut powder by filtering with a strainer and dry on direct on sunlight.


2. At the time of filtering can get two types coconut fibre and separate with another basket.


3. Use water mixed fungicide chemical for watering dry coconut powder until it's soaked. To protect the baby seedling fungicide chemical is very important.Through this process, the roots will be nice.

4. Use thick coconut fibre on the bottom of our sowing pot. They will be works as a strainer can control water flow and also protect coconut powder flow out from the bottom of the pot.

5. Now cover the fine coconut fibre.

6. Use small amount "Organic Fertilizer like fish fertilizer ", and this fertilizer will help the baby and younger seedlings and also them growing stronger and healthier.
Please do not use chemical fertilizer to just boost up the growth rate but it can weaken them in future growth.

7.Cover again with fine coconut fibre.and spread again good fertilizer (Do not use more)all over the coconut powder.

8. Cover with small amount fine coconut powder again.


9. Now Watering them and watch until you see water come down from the bottom of the pot .


10. Now make s different row for sowing the seeds.

11. Use the clipper lightly to put each seed in each row very gently horizontally.


12.Use tag, name and date for your identification.


13. Cover it with dry coconut powder again, and keep the distance about 1 cm height.


14. Again use water until top coconut powder just getting wet .15. Use the wrapper to cover pots and place them in the shade for a week.



16. Open the pot cover after a weak, and new baby seedlings growing up from media. Sometimes they take 8 to 10 days.

17. Spread again light fertilizer all over seedlings. Hope you will enjoy.

Rooting Hormone step by step guide

It dramatically increases the odds of success with propagation after use properly. It can be used on hard(Need more contents) or soft plants, as well as corms and bulbs.

Steps Rooting Hormone

1. Remove the cutting from the parent plant. Use only cuttings from vigorous and healthy plants, and make sure the growing tip is between 2 inches and 8 inches long. The cutting should be taken near a node at the end. Remove any leaves or flowers from the node, and if it's a hardwood cutting, lightly score the cutting.

2. Moisten the cutting lightly. However, if you're using a rough cutting, like a wood cutting, it is not necessary to moisten it.

3. Dip the cutting into the powder. Immerse the cutting into the powder slightly higher than the planting depth. Shake the excess powder off by lightly tapping the cutting against the edge of the container.

4. Plant the cutting in any high-quality potting medium. Make sure the hole is wide enough that the rooting hormone is rubbed off as you sink the cutting into the soil. Do not allow rooting hormone onto nearby plants or cuttings as it might be toxic to established plants.

5. Tamp down the soil around the cutting to remove air pockets. Keep the cutting warm (at least 60ºF) and moist. Many plants will root better if they are kept out of direct sunlight.

Using on Bulbs and Corms:

Rooting hormone is also effective as stimulating root production on corms and bulbs. Simply put the bulb or corm in a plastic bag with a small quantity of rooting hormone and shake it to coat with a light layer. Plant.

African violets, carnations, fuchsia, geraniums, jasmine, willow, viburnum, roses, begonias, gardenias, coleus, philodendrons, poinsettias, chrysanthemums, euonymus, hydrangeas, phlox, raspberry, most home plants, garden and greenhouse plants

Cautions about the  Hormone

Rooting hormone is effective, but it is a hazardous material. Some manufacturers recommend against using rooting hormone on food plants, so check the label cautions to make sure the variety you're using is safe for food plants. Also, do not dispose of excess rooting hormone in areas where it can contaminate water supplies or soil. It should be treated like any bioactive chemical and disposed of in a solid waste facility.

About Rooting Hormone?

Rooting hormones were discovered in the 1930s by Dutch scientists. Today, the most common rooting hormone is a chemical called indole-3-butyric acid, or I3B. It is available in both liquid and powder forms. However, home growers rarely require the liquid form because their volume is so low. As a result, the most common product available in garden centres is the powdered rooting hormone.

Which Cuttings should  I Use?

Rooting hormone will work on a variety of cuttings, including new growth, brittle stems, woody stems, and others. It's also very useful for grafting, and will dramatically increase the success of grafted plants.

Now you can pot this plants with normal fertilizer. 

Treating Root Rot

Treating Root Rot

Overwatered grass at times, seems not only to recover later. The entire plant leaves begin to yellow and dull slippery slope toward death. The question which they try to lay down the fields of irrigation, but there is no advantage is seen. Chances allow the root system.

Root Rot:

 Two root - overwatered long exposure poverty conditions roots can someone dies. Dying can begin to rot. The red killing healthier roots can be spread equally, even if soil conditions are corrected.

Fungus in the other is the origin out of the ground. The fungus can lay dormant in the soil indefinitely and can only flourish when suddenly the most once or twice overwatered. Root rot the roots die mushroom

How Does Root Rot Look Like? :

If you are unsure as to whether it may be of the root of the root of a plant to look at him in great surprise what the man? If the yellow leaves to wither and for unknown reasons, the body gradually wants to check the roots. 'Be taken up and feel the seed of the land, the roots. The roots of the root affected the black look and feel mushy. Literally, fall to plant roots can be affected by touch. Healthy roots can be black, or pale reddish brown, but grow strong and flexible it is.

Treatment of Root Rot :

Whether the problem is more overwatering or one overwatering root fungus that causes flare red, need to act quickly. The treatment plant root as soon as possible to give the best chance to survive.

Begins to treat the plant by removing the water from the earth and wash the roots. Affected as far as it is the root and the offspring alone, to wash away, while they were a lighter of the plant.

Continue with sharp, clean shears or scissors to cut any of the affected roots. But if you are going to the root, so that a significant amount of the work to remove the root system, and if it is affected. If this is so, the third to a half, and the world in the grass of a pair of scissors cut the leaves of alcohol or the scissors. This leaves many plant roots to grow better chance with the support they need.

He was taken away in a pot of earth, placing of the root in the grass. Moreover, the street of the solution, wash the pot.

If possible, immerse the remaining healthy roots in a fungicide solution to kill the possible root fungus. After treatment, the root of a plant, the plant repotting mix with clean potting soil.

He has good drainage and water container plants dry soil safely. While the grassroots Renewable does not fertilize the plant, as this will stress it. Lest again, in a system of the force of the root to be treated. Hopefully, now the plant will recover to get back to your beautiful Jerusalem houseplant.

Fusarium Wilt Disease & treatment

Fusarium Wilt Disease: Controlling Fusarium Wilt

There is in us, and holy is the name of the fungus Fusarium. Many species of solo- this is borne pathogen that infects plants, ornamental flowers, and with the vegetables, the top of the list. Fungus Fusarium wagging this indefinitely. The effect of the soil, on plants or that, is contaminated by one another, Fusarium wilt fungus produces -Krankheit, also known as " pale. " On the names of the principal sign of the disease self-explanatory. In the death of plants, greenhouse Fusarium the chief magistrates, to take place between individual skills cultivated at all, has the ability to run rampant plants.

Fusarium Fungus:

Fungus of the potato plants in the family like tomatoes and peppers. It is also called the flowers, and the trees, greenhouse. Fusarium oxysporum deliver the roots of young plants and structure blocks move into cells. Once in were blocked, could not the grass of the nourishment of the cells can hold no water.In the first place, what is a sign of India is burnt out? Fusarium disease progresses, the leaves are withered, jaunies leaves and stunting. The worst symptoms during the day to recover, but in the sun You see clearly in the dark. , In time many plants succumb and die, while they culled a few flowers or fruits and produce some spread their stays together poorly.

Because of the contagious and tough kind of mushroom power Fusarium When a few Ausweichverfahrenzu . Fusarium wilt fungal prevention is better than cure is possible.

Control of Fusarium:

 Wilt Fusarium oxysporum is especially in the warm of the earth. It is nourished, that with the purpose of old plant debris and soil. It is better to not change for weeds choke the rotation of the sterilization.

Thou shalt not plant in the same place in the same year of the crop.

When the street was barren: and the caldrons, and the earth, and when the solution. No bed solarization by the spread on the floor in a black plastic month to kill the fungus. It is, therefore, high temperatures extreme " to boil," is the good and fungus Fusarium.

Washing tillage equipment, shoes and away they could become infected soil. But if you think it could be contaminated by the year with no plant to remove the debris to burn with passion. Do not compost contaminated material, this is a perfect environment for the spread of the fungus Pliny.

Treatment:

 Which are useful fumigants against Fusarium mushroom. For we must observe the application of most of them, the good pleasure of the name of the love you bought it. Fungicides are used to soak the roots or Rod.

Remove the soil around the roots of the bulb, and then rinse thoroughly corm or tuber. , Retaining the organs in a bucket of water with a fungicide to enjoy the projecting roots and ecological debt.

Taxes fungus Fusarium in the garden relies on crop rotation, clean and hygienic practices. Always inspect new equipment before they buy. I remember prevention is the best way of governing the soles of the Fusarium and many other diseases.

Transplanting plants in to the pots and Ground

The best time for the plants in the field, to transfer them into the pot, or that the first pair of leaves only, the child, as long as they sprouted. Although the plants are transferred to larger and more difficult level of competition. Translations soccer or continence may be mixed with clay.

First of all, Fill the waterpots with the earth that is dug, mixed with organic fertilizer. When transplanting seedlings need quite a fresh pot filled with soil. In the event that the plant is to carry out only a very little older, a man's thumb, to the pot as the rest of the plants of the earth shall be filled with earth. Add water to the earth, and shall strip it, the hour.

Carefully dig planting. The seeds of a number of young men between the thumb and the finger, and the stems, as they are delicate and easily damaged. Make a small hole in the land of the bud, to destroy the fingers and press down.

Carefully Keep the pots near a window. If there is, that a plant it with plastic wrap and cover the heaven all the sprinkling of water, the days of wilting, and commanding to abstain. After a few days, remove the back cover plants window.transplanting

 Plants that have been growing in position for more than five years are much less likely to survive transplanting than younger specimens it is as a rule-of-thumb, Young plants transplant fairly well, but for big, more established specimens will suffer greater stress and require advanced technique.

 Secret tips for  transplanting on the ground .

1.Dig and/or transplant when it is overcast or during the cooler evening hours.

2.Never leave the roots exposed to sun, heat or wind. Don't remove all plants from their pots and place them in the garden. Remove just prior to planting.
3 .Summer is never the best time to move or transplant garden plants. The sun is too intense and the heat is relentless.So try to avoid summer.
4. Before your transplanting water into the hole.
5.Place the transplant into the hole and fill it halfway with water. Allow the water to settle the soil around the roots and then finish filling the hole.
6.Lightly feed with bone dust and horn dust around the soil around the time of hole transplanting.
7.Don't water the whole plant, leaves and all,
8.Try to keep light shadow if the plant is so baby.

Every day should check the plant, for the first couple of weeks.

DIRECT SOWING OF SEED

Direct sowing is much cost effective than another method of planting.Though it is not a full proof method for some plants it's very easy and mostly prevents plants damage, like root damage and etc.

There is some process of direct planting on the ground.

The drill/through process

Dig a trench about 1-1/4 inches deep. 

Sprinkle the seeds lightly and evenly along the length of the trench. 

Check the instruction on seed cover before applying seeds. 

Gently cover up with a light layer of soil. 

Water the seeds gently. 

The Broadcasting process

It is the best process for winter season plants like root plants(carrot, radish etc)when the mud-bed is ready just gently speared seeds all over it and water it.



Done.

PETUNIAS SEEDS GERMINATION & GROWING

 Sowing:
To sow seeds in the house, from February 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Petunias bloom in the morning and covered with flowers are stunning. They like the sun and often bloom within two months from seed and continue throughout the season until killed by the frost. They are easily cultivated, requiring rich soil and full sun. They grow best in high-moisture areas with well-drained soils but can adapt to most soil types. For Established the plants need less maintenance require dry weather than other plants.
Seed 6 mm (¼ inch) apart in rows 7 cm (3 inches) mm, that's for sure stand (especially the corners), so it is not eaten with irrigation. Do not cover the seed, as the seeds need light to germinate.
Provide light and constant warmth of 21 to 27°C (70 to 80°F)   respectively. In fact, the heat source from bottom to the use of the best results. F2 hybrids tend at the end of the previous germinate much better at about 27c (80f).  F2 hybrids tend to germinate better at the higher end, at around 27C (80F). The soil temp should not fluctuate and must not drop below 21°C (70°F). Finely mist and cover seed tray with plastic or paper to conserve moisture.

Need to check the compost for dryness regularly.  Add a little warm clean water from below, if this is the case, being careful not to over water. Don't use too much water, can die seedlings, as it can spread "damping off fungi", and encourage other moulds and diseases.

Germination:
  Usually, seed takes 10 to 21 days for germination and it depending on soil and temperature conditions. After sprout, the seeds remove the cover as soon as possible. Keep moist but do not use cold water as it lowers the soil temp and weakens tender seedlings.
  Transplant and grow on in cooler conditions, around 13 to 16°C (55 to 60°F) for stocky plants when seedlings are large enough to handle.  Acclimatize to outdoor conditions for 10 to 15 days before planting out after all risk of frost, 30cm (12in) apart in a sunny spot on the light well-drained soil. For pot plants, transplant the seedlings into 7.5cm (3in) pots, grow cool, well ventilated and give plenty of light, but shade from direct sun.

Cultivation:
When plants are 5 to 10cm (2 to 4in) tall, and the ground is warm, transplant to their final positions in pots or into the garden, spacing 20 to 30cm (8 to12in) apart. The plant should be a full sun location. They will tolerate light shade but blooming will be reduced. Use a low-nitrogen/high-phosphorus fertilizer sparingly. Do not over-water or over fertilize, Over-watering will kill the plants.
After planting into baskets, when established give them a good spray from a watering can. The weight of the water flow will produce a perfect cascading habit.
Pinch or shear when 15cm (6in) tall and keep faded flowers picked, for denser plants and more flowers,
Petunias are sticky and will attract greenfly so keep an eye on them. Don't over water in the winter and keep them well ventilated.

Site and soil:

The most important requirement for growing petunias successfully is a location with plenty of light. Petunias need at least five or six hours of good sunlight; they'll perform even better when located in full sun all day. The more shade they receive, the fewer flowers they'll produce. Impatiens are a better choice for blooming in shady places.While soil needn't be terribly rich to grow good petunias, it must drain decently. It's always useful to improve the garden soil by conditioning it with organic matter, such as baled peat moss, well-rotted leaf compost or manure.Spread the organic matter two to three inches thick. Then incorporate it into the soil to a depth of eight to ten inches, using a rototiller or garden fork. This helps open up heavy clay soil, which improves drainage but can also increase the ability of light, sandy soil to hold moisture and nutrients.

Fertilizer and water:

Work a balanced fertilizer such as 8-8-8, 10-10-10, or 12-12-12 into garden soil at a rate of two pounds per hundred square feet. Later--early to mid-July--begin to use liquid fertilizer every three weeks (weekly for "spreading" petunias). Once the plants have begun to spread, it will be much easier to water this solution into the soil than to side dress with dry fertilizer.
Incorporate timed-release fertilizer into the soil when planting window boxes or other containers. Otherwise fertilize regularly every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer meant especially for flowering plants. ("Spreading" types require weekly fertilizing.)
For a fertilizer recommendation tailor-made to your specific garden conditions, have an accurate soil test run. Contact your local County Extension office or the Soil Testing Lab at the University of Minnesota for information.
Petunias tolerate lots of heat and are relatively undemanding when it comes to water. Except for "spreading" types, which require frequent watering, thorough watering once a week should be sufficient in all but the worst weather. Leave sprinklers on long enough to soak the soil to a depth of six to eight inches every time you water. Hanging baskets and other containers also need more frequent watering, perhaps as often as daily, depending on their size and the volume of soil they contain.


Plant Uses:
Window boxes, containers, tubs, hanging baskets and pot plants.
Origin:
The species was first sent from South America to Paris in 1823. It was discovered in South America by the explorer James Tweedie, (after whom the genus Tweedie is named), who sent specimens to the Glasgow Botanical Garden in 1831. Most of the varieties seen in gardens are hybrids (Petunia x hybrid), they were among the first ornamentals to be bred for the bedding plant market in the 1950s.

How to grow and care thyme herbal plants

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. It's aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavour. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking. Growing thyme provides an anchor in a herb garden in areas where it is evergreen in winter. Thyme is also perfect for containers, either alone or in combination with plants that won’t shade it out. The flowers open in spring and summer, sprinkling the plant with tiny, two-lipped blossoms attractive to bees.

SPECIFICATION OF THYME


Common Name -Thyme
Planting Depth-1/4 inch
Seed Spacing -1 inch
Row Spacing -18 inches
Space After Thinning -8-12 inches
Days to Germination -14-28
Days to Harvest -85
Ways to Grow -Containers, Ornamental Edibles, Small Gardens

Planting:

1. For a head start, plant the seeds or young plants 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost after the last frost. Plant in well-drained soil with a pH of about 7.0 with slightly alkaline conditions with 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.

2. Add lime to the pot or ground to raise the pH if needed. Also, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil at or before planting and again each spring.

3. Mulching with limestone gravel or builder’s sand improves drainage and prevents root rot.

4. Pinching the tips of the stems keeps plants bushy, but stop clipping about a month before the first frost of fall to make sure that new growth is not too tender going into the cool weather.

 GERMINATION

 Use a flat tray container about 10 inches by 15 inches (biggest or smaller your choice) 1.5 to 2 inches deep. Make sure you have plenty of holes in it for good water drainage è put the seedling mix you prepared up to almost top leaving about 0.5 inches space è now evenly spread the seeds over it after that cover the seeds with seedling mix only about 0.5 cm (half a centimeter) è water it by watering can è place the container in semi-shaded place.  


As prepare a planting mix with the sand, soil and vermicompost =>Sprinkle diluted fungicide water (2gm in 1-litre water) after sowing the seeds. Make a hole in the potting mix with your finger=>Insert each seed in a hole as 1/3=>Place the planted pots or flats in a warm, above 60ºF (15.5ºC), sunny place=>too wet is quite dangerous for the seeds to keep the potting soil moist but not too wet until the seeds emerge, which should be in about 21 days=>cover the mixture with poly bag=> after 21 days  you can remove the plastic.

  Care:

Water normally and remember to trim the plants. Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too. If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.

Growing Dill

"Anethum graveolens" (Dill) was named 2010 herb of the year by the International Herb Association and lends a wonderful flavour to many foods. It is one of the few herbs that is a bit challenging to sustain, as it requires flower removal and repeated sowing. Luckily the herb grows quickly and steadily but that makes it no less desirable in any herb garden.

Types Of Dill:

Mammoth dill: A popular tall variety, produces great leaves and seeds

Monia dill: A “new and improved” dwarf variety like the better-known Fernleaf dill that can be grown in smaller spaces, including in containers

Dukat dill: An excellent "all-around variety” for gardeners with space to spare to let it grow to a good size


When To Grow:

Sow the seeds directly into the ground two to three weeks before the last usual frost date or in early May to avoid any weather surprises. Dill is heat-sensitive and will bolt when summer temperatures soar, but it can be sown again in September.

Where To Grow:

Plant your dill in well-drained, loamy, sandy soils or clay soils as well. You may grow dill in an outdoor pot at least 12 inches deep so its taproot can be accommodated. While dill can be planted in rows, consider planting dill in a “clump” where it can be allowed to self-seed for successive crops. 

Dill thrives in full sun. If it does not receive enough light, it will get leggy. Since most varieties are bushy and tall, place dill along with the sunny north side of your garden so that it doesn’t shade shorter sun-loving herbs or vegetables.

Dill is heat-sensitive and bolts quickly. It is inevitable that it will not have a long life.

How To Grow:

1. Adequately amend the soil with composted organic material or build a bed for planting.

2. Directly sow seeds 1/4-inch deep providing light to germinate.

3. Now plant in rows about two feet apart or prepare a square foot or larger area, broadcast the seeds, and rake the seeds into the soil at the recommended depth.

4. Provide regular water until the plants are well established allowing the soil to dry between irrigation. DO NOT OVER-WATER

5. Thin seedlings when they are 2 to 4 inches tall, leaving the strongest plants preventing the plants from crowding each other. "Good air circulation around the base promotes healthy plants"

6. It can be used as soon as the needle-like foliage appears.

R- Grow Herbs In Pots

A collection of herbs in containers in a sunny place near the house is a great asset for both garden and kitchen. The downside is that many pot-grown herbs die out in winter. However, they can be harvested in autumn and stored for use throughout the winter season.

Most herbs are suitable for container cultivation. They can easily be sown from seed or bought from nurseries or garden centres. Beware of the pot-grown herbs offered in supermarkets, as they are usually grown under glass and are often too lush and stressed to adapt well to life outdoors.

PLANTING HERBS

Container: Containers must have drainage holes and be large enough to accommodate the roots as they grow.

Light: Most herbs need full sun at least 6 hours a day. But where the temperature is soaring, herb containers may need to be shaded during the hottest part of the day.

Soil: Use high-quality potting soil because most herbs need good drainage. Also, make sure that your container has drainage holes. For better results prepare your own potting soil with:-

• 1 part coconut coir or peat moss
• 1 part compost
• 1 part perlite
• 1 part topsoil

Fertilizer: Be careful not to over-fertilize herbs. Most don’t like it and some herbs will flat out croak if they are fussed with and overfed. Some herbs, like thyme and oregano, thrive on neglect and won’t be as tasty if they are given too much attention, water or food.

 

SUGGESTED HERBS

All herbs will grow in containers.

Combine herbs according to their shape so there is room for more than one in a pot. For example, pair upright rosemary with creeping thyme. If the pot is large enough, you can add sage or chives, too.

For compact herbs, including mint, oregano, thyme, sage, and rosemary.

In humid climates, use pea gravel mulch in the pot to help keep leaves from rotting.

Difference between Annual, Perennial, Biennial

Annuals:

Plants that perform their entire life cycle from seed to flower and to seed within a single growing season. All the roots, stems and leaves of the plant die in annually. End of the cycle after annual plants produce mature seeds, they die, having exhausted themselves from sprouting, growing foliage and flowers, and finally producing viable seed in just one growing season. The mother plant dies, the plant may have left hundreds to thousands, of seeds to carry on her legacy. For annual plants, one generation per year is the norm, so they have a life cycle of one growing season. For e.g Dianthus, poppy, zinnia, cosmos, are annual .

Biennials: 

Biennials are a unique group of plants that only produce leaves the first year and then flower, go to seed and die the second. Generally, the seed is started between May and June and plants are set out in late August to early September.Biennial plants complete their life cycle over two growing seasons. The first season they grow only foliage, commonly a low-growing rosette of leaves. The second growing season they form flowers and produce seeds; then, the mother plant dies. Common biennial flowers include foxgloves and Canterbury bells. But did you know that cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts, carrots, and celery are also biennials? We usually harvest them in their first season of vegetative growth, so we never actually see the flowers.

Perennials: 

Perennials, on the other hand, live for three or more growing seasons. They can be planted from bulb or seed – often bulbs must be planted in the fall to produce spring-blooming plants.You can purchase young plants at a nursery to plant in the spring. Perennials generally have shorter blooming periods than annuals, so gardeners often pair them with perennials that bloom at other times to maintain constant colour from spring to autumn.

First season growth results in a small rosette of leaves near the soil surface. During the second season's growth stem elongation, flowering and seed formation occur followed by the entire plant's death.It grows from seeds and bulb, Perennial plants continue to grow and flower for more than two years—and many will live for decades.

As with annuals and biennials, perennials produce flowers that, if successfully pollinated, form seeds. The difference is that the mother plant doesn’t die after producing seed. If we define a life cycle as the time it takes a plant to go from seed to seed, you can see that perennials’ life cycles can vary widely. For many common perennials, completing a life cycle usually takes from two to perhaps five years or more, For example, if you plant a cone-flower seed, you’ll get only foliage the first few years, with flowers and seed coming in subsequent years. If the first seed is formed the third season, then we would say the plant has a three-year life cycle, from seed to seed.

The word perennial is commonly used to describe long-lived herbaceous plants—those with green, non-woody stems. In temperate regions, most perennials die back to the ground in the winter, then sprout from the roots or crowns in the spring. Woody plants like shrubs and trees are also perennials, in that they grow for many years. However, in common usage, a distinction is made between woody and non-woody perennials. The word perennial is reserved for herbaceous, non-woody plants. Woody plants whose above ground parts persist through the winter are categorized as shrubs, trees, or woody vines.

Rose, Hibiscus